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Modern Description: From the east of Kambos, a subsidiary road climbs south from the shore into the hills; the village of Vourliótes is reached after 5km, immersed in a beautifully treed landscape, high on the north slopes of Mt. Ambelos. As its name implies, the village was created by settlers in the 17th century from Vourla (Ancient Clazomenae) in the Gulf of Smyrna on the mainland opposite, who chose the site for its springs, its safe and panoramic position, and its suitability for the cultivation of vines and olives. The village has preserved a strong architectural identity of Asia Minor in its attractive variety of houses, with tiled roofs, long windows, coloured shutters and balconies. Although some of the surrounding area has been damaged by fire, it is an ideal centre for walking and climbing the ridges of Mt. Ambelos/Karvounis, and to explore the valleys and villages along the north coast.
Only 2 km to the north of the village, the devastation of fires has left the 16th century monastery of Vrontá damaged and isolated. Although founded in 1476, and therefore the oldest of the active monasteries on the island, the present buildings—fortified and somewhat inelegant externally, but with graceful arcades surrounding the central catholicon inside—date from almost a century later (1566); they were restored in 1960 and will now need more attention after the recent fires, before the monastic community can return again. The mountainous area to the south of the monastery was hidden territory into which the dwindling population of the island was pushed in search of safety from the repeated seaborne Saracen attacks of the 8th century. Fortified communities were formed, the late mediaeval remains of which can still be seen today: 2.5 km beyond the monastery of Vrontá, on the northeast facing ridge, at a height of 620m above Kokkari, is the 13th century structure of the castle of Loulouda (left-hand branch at junction 800m south of Vrontá; castle is visible on summit to left after 1km), built on a strategic eminence where there had been an earlier presence in Antiquity; further southwest, on a 1,050m peak, half way in distance between Loulouda and the final summit of Mt. Ambelos, are the earlier remains of Lazárou Castle (5km along the right-hand branch at junction 800m south of Vrontá), from which the views across the island to the north, east and south are yet more dramatic.
Wikidata ID: Q25120299
DARE: 43418

Info: McGilchrist's Greek Islands

(From McGilchrist’s Greek Islands, © Nigel McGilchrist 2010, excerpted with his gracious permission. Click for the books)

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