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Modern Description: Three kilometres west of Chora, the coast road passes the site of the 4th century BC Sanctuary of Poseidon and Amphitrite (open 8.30–3; closed Mon). In ancient times this important and busy sanctuary was linked to the city of Tenos by a sacred way, which passed through the city's cemeteries. At first glance the site looks unpromising, but with the help of imagination it soon comes to life. Strabo was impressed by the multitudes who came to celebrate the Poseidonia festivals here; he comments that the sanctuary was ‘…θέας ἂξιον', ‘something worth seeing' (Geog., X 5, 11) – more interesting, by implication, than the city itself. The probable reason for the choice of site lies in its northwest corner, where a spring (now dry) would have given rise in earliest times to a dense stand of trees or ‘sacred grove'.
In front, and to the left on entering, lies the podium of the temple. Nothing of the superstructure is standing, although some column drums in gray marble at the western end have been erected where they fell, rather than where they originally stood. To the south (between the temple and the sea) is the base of another small temple or shrine which, in its clearly cut base-course of finely dressed marble, shows several signs of where the bronze dowels and staples which held the marble pieces together have been lifted and removed. Further behind this, in the southwest corner, are the remains of Roman baths which were added later: the red, waterproofed plaster of one of the chambers is still well preserved.
The water for these baths came from the spring and nymphaeum in the northwest corner, which is the most interesting building here. In the centre is a semicircular, stone bench where, in the shade of the roof supported by the columns in front (bases visible), people could sit and enjoy the cool. On either side were two rectangular basins of water, constantly filled by a jet of water channelled through two grooves in the marble above. The plan of these two tanks is visible (note column bases) and some of the grooved, vertical slabs which closed the spaces between the columns are also recognizable, especially on the left. This provided a beautiful setting and the constant sound of running water for visitors. To the rear of the structure, it is possible to see how the water is led from the main spring down a covered channel on the left (west) side into the narrow retaining tanks behind the seats, from where it flows out into the two open, lower tanks.
In the opposite corner, at the back of the area, is a semicircular, honorific or sacred monument. It was once crowned with a ring of statuary (the foot-fixtures in one of the blocks are still visible). The much eroded inscription behind mentions near its centre “….[Posei]..don kai Amphitriti”. Visible at the far southeast corner is the end of a long stoa which then extends much further to the east. Given that the distance from the outside line of columns (north row), to the doorsteps of the buildings behind (south line), is approximately five metres, the stoa must have been very long, if it were to possess customary proportions. The large area between the stoa and the temple was an open court paved in marble – in aspect, probably not that different from the one at the Church of the Evangelistria.
Wikidata ID: Q22681616

Info: McGilchrist's Greek Islands

(From McGilchrist’s Greek Islands, © Nigel McGilchrist 2010, excerpted with his gracious permission. Click for the books)

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