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Modern Description: Platy Vouní can also be reached by car from the right branch off the main road north at Papouri (6 km), 1.5 km after Mytakas. This road leads (left) to the springs at Lygeró (7 km), and (right) to the Chalandrianí plateau (7.5 km), en route to Platy Vouni (8.5 km) where the road ends. Chalandriani, panoramic and strategically sited overlooking the waters of Andros, Tinos and Mykonos/Delos, was one of the first and most important Early Bronze Age, Cycladic sites to be explored in the Islands: it was brought to the attention of the archaeological world after the excavations of the pioneering Greek archaeologist, Christos Tsoundas, in the last decade of the 19th century. Tsoundas uncovered extensive cemeteries and artefacts of considerable artistry dating from the Early Cycladic II period (2700-2300 BC). Amongst these were the unusual, so-called “frying-pan” clay-vessels, and a number of striking, painted zoomorphic (?ceremonial) cups and bowls (now mostly in the National Archeological Museum in Athens). The graves he found were dug into the ground and corbelled – a design unique to Syros.
Little can now be seen of the Bronze Age cemeteries and of the settlement of Chalandriani which lie near to the church of the Panaghia: but on the summit of the precipitous hill to the north, at *Kastrí, is one of the most remarkable, fortified, Early Cycladic settlements so far uncovered. (For access, see below) In 1898 Tsoundas brought to light in this remote site a settlement with an impressive degree of organisation and imposing stone fortifications. It was smaller and slightly later in date (c. 2300-2200 BC) than the settlement of Chalandriani. The northern edge of the hill is defended with an outwork and semi-circular wall (c. 55m long and 2 m high) with six horseshoe bastions whose design appears to reflect influence from the Asia Minor coast. Within the walls to the south, the stone, one or two-room dwellings are grouped in blocks, and separated by recognisable streets. Some of the houses have stone hearths. Significantly, the finding of crucibles for smelting and moulds for casting, as well as many objects in bronze, points to the existence of a flourishing metalworking shop. Excavation is still continuing and has brought to light cups, storage vessels, decorated pyxides, quern-stones and obsidian blades. The site is dramatic, panoramic, but arduous of access: it inspires admiration for the archaeologists who have worked here.
Access to Kastri (one hour, by foot from the asphalt road) is only from Chalandriani, and is by a steep and shadeless footpath which descends to sea-level, crosses the torrent-bed, and climbs again to the acropolis across an unstable scree. The site is just below the summit, enclosed by a ring of recent dry-stone walls.
Wikidata ID: Q15121418

Info: McGilchrist's Greek Islands

(From McGilchrist’s Greek Islands, © Nigel McGilchrist 2010, excerpted with his gracious permission. Click for the books)

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