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Modern Description: The main path from Aghios Mámas continues east along the south slope of Mount Chalépas, following the line of the Sacred Way that joined the ancient city to the Sanctuary of Apollo on the eastern isthmus of the island: parts of its paved surface are clearly visible in stretches. The path ends at the isthmus after one and a half hours from Katalymátsa, or two hours from Chora.
The metalled road meanwhile continues from Katalymátsa to Mégas Potamós (6km), a ravine with small spots of cultivation, and thence down to the shore at the solitary chapel of the Aghii Anárgyri (7km). The altar inside is supported by a small Corinthian capital, and other ancient fragments have been collected outside. The road ends (8km) at the monastery on the isthmus, where it is joined by the footpath from Kastelli, via Aghios Mámas. The monastery of the Panaghia Kalamiótissa, dedicated to the Zoödochos Pigi or Virgin as ‘Life-giving Source', which stands on the ridge of the neck of land joining the dramatic rock of Kalamos to the island, has become once again home to nine monks after a recent period of abandonment.
It occupies the site of the ancient Sanctuary of Apollo Anaphaios or Aigletes*, one of the most singular and interesting in the Cyclades. There are impressive remains of the temple and its sacred precinct, standing to a considerable height; many of the marble blocks also preserve clear inscriptions.
The legendary origins of the sanctuary are very ancient: it is said to have been founded by Jason and the Argonauts in gratitude to Apollo who saved them from a terrible storm. Jason in desperation besought Apollo to appear and to help them. Apollonius (Argonautica, IV, 1694 ff.) relates it thus: Then, [Apollo] son of Leto, quick to hear, you descended from heaven to the Melantian islets lying in the sea.
Then alighting on one of the twin peaks, you raised up your golden bow with your right hand; and the bow flashed a dazzling light all about. And before [the Argonauts] appeared a small island of the Sporades, opposite tiny Hippouris, and there they cast anchor and stayed.
The Melantioi Petrai are the two humped islets visible to the southeast of the island, and Hippouris the reef between them and Anaphi. The burst of light, ‘αἴγλη', gives the divinity here the epithet Aigletes; and the name of the island derives from ‘ἀναφαίνειν', to ‘bring to light' or ‘make apparent', both associations with the Jason legend. Apollonius adds that the Argonauts had nothing more than water to sacrifice in thanks to the god: as they did this, the Phaeacian servant-women who accompanied them, laughed at their actions, eliciting an exchange of jokes and friendly taunts between the men and women. It thereafter became a tradition on the island to stage a trading of insults and jokes whenever they sacrificed to Apollo Aigletes.
The marble used here, which is of local origin, has unusual characteristics: it has a high quartz content which causes it to glint and catch the light, but which also makes it subject to corrosion by salt, as can be seen on the north side of the sanctuary retaining wall. Around the entrance are fluted column fragments and other architectural elements. To the right-hand side of the doorway an excellently preserved stretch of wall, in courses of beautifully cut marble, snugly fitted over the irregular rock outcrops of the terrain, rises over three metres high: this is the west wall of the main temple's naos. The masonry dates the construction to the 4th century BC. To either side of the entrance are two blocks carved with ancient inscriptions in fine Hellenistic lettering, amongst many later, modern graffiti; there are other ancient inscriptions just beyond.
To the right on entering is the enclosed naos of the temple, constructed in regular blocks of honey-veined marble.
Walls of such height and preservation are a rare and beautiful sight. The design is unusual: the ancient building would appear to have been prostyle in plan, with a porch only on the front. This led into a pronaos, which was curiously divided into two enclosed rooms to either side of the entrance.
A door, whose architrave-block bears a long Hellenistic inscription, then led from the pronaos into the naos. The former refectory of the monastery, now disused, was built inside it. The present catholicon of the monastery, standing to the east, is modern, but it is built on ancient foundations, a couple of courses of which survive. Extending to the east and north of the monastery enclosure are the ponderous walls built up from below to support the platform of the sanctuary, their corners meticulously drafted, as always. The presence of several other stylobates of buildings indicate that there were altars and temples to other deities within the same precinct: inscriptions refer to the cult also of Artemis, Aphrodite, Asklepios and of Zeus Ktesios. For so small an island this was an important sanctuary. The prevalence of Hellenistic building suggests that the island enjoyed particular prosperity in this period, probably in conjunction with the Ptolemaic presence at Ancient Thera, directly across the water to the west.
The temples would have looked out east over Chalara Bay, where two spikes of strikingly green rock rise from the sea, indicating a presence of iron ore.

Info: McGilchrist's Greek Islands

(From McGilchrist’s Greek Islands, © Nigel McGilchrist 2010, excerpted with his gracious permission. Click for the books)

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