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Modern Description: From Vrykounda, one hour's walk following the coast to the east brings you to the inlet of Trístomo, whose name meaning ‘three mouths', derives from the entrance into the 1.8 km long sea-loch which is occluded by two islets, which leave three alarmingly narrow openings (only one of which is properly navigable) into the stretch of calm waters within. The shores are rocky and infertile, and the water a vivid emerald colour. Apart from the two whitewashed churches, there is no living community at Trístomo – only a couple of seasonal dwellings, and the ruins of some Italian army barracks by the shore. Beside and to the west of the chapel of Aghios Nikolaos, which sits directly on the shore, half way down the south side of the inlet, is ancient masonry: the British archaeologist R.M. Dawkins (1871-1955) connected this site with that of the now vanished temple of Poseidon Porthmios (‘of the crossing'), which is mentioned in several epigraphical sources, even though the site would appear neither typical nor suitable for a temple. The conspicuous position now occupied by the Church of the Anargyri on the promontory a little further to the west would be more comprehensible, but no visible evidence there is to be seen. It is also possible that the temple stood overlooking the narrow crossing – as its name implies – between Karpathos and Saria, where the church of Aghia Ekaterini now stands over an Early Christian predecessor, about 50m above the water on the south side of the channel. The currents in the water at this point are so strong and variable that divine superintendence might have been particularly welcome here.
Trismegistos Geo: 54137

Info: McGilchrist's Greek Islands

(From McGilchrist’s Greek Islands, © Nigel McGilchrist 2010, excerpted with his gracious permission. Click for the books)

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